Beginner’s Guide to Suits: Part I

May 13, 2009

Each week, I will present a post on the ins and outs of custom suits. For the complete guide, please leave a comment with your email.

Fused vs. Floating Canvas

Because a blazer is a 3-D garment, it has a middle layer housed between the suit fabric and the lining. In off the rack suits, this middle layer is a synthetic material that acts like a glue and “fuses” itself to the lining and fabric. In most cases, depending on the price and brand – it is a high quality synthetic glue that is activated through heating.

In custom tailored suits, there is the option of getting a “horse hair” hand stitched canvas with added cotton layering called melton. The canvas is a tad heavier and conforms to the movement of the fabric.

The true benefit of a floating canvas is not seen by the naked eye in the short term. In the long term, the hand stitching will stretch with the canvas through wear and tear and remain smooth on the outside. For a fused canvas, after frequent dry cleaning, the suit may begin to pucker as the glue loses adhesiveness.

FloatingCanvasFloating Canvas Construction 

FusedCanvasFused Canvas Construction

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