Uncovering Suit Myths

November 12, 2008

Overseas DB suitMany of us have taken trips overseas and been coaxed into a tailor shops whether it be on the streets of Hong Kong or India. We are intrigued by this way of selling and believe it a rite of passage as a traveler to purchase a custom made garment. However, most buyers do not understand the complexities of buying custom and are left unsatisfied with their purchase. This dissatisfaction stems from misunderstandings, time constraints and poor style choices. Furthermore, some tailors aren’t equipped to produce quality modern cut suits as they are stuck in there traditional way of thought.


These same services are also available in Canada; they appear typically more expensive yet offer modern western cuts with some flexibility in personal style options.


Stores like Harry Rosen, Holt Renfrew and Korry’s offer made to measure suits that are manufactured by Coppley Apparel in Hamilton, Ontario. They do a good job in MTM, however there is a substantial difference between made to measure and custom tailored (bespoke) tailoring that must be addressed.

Coppley offers suits that are based on pre-existing patterns and cuts which provide little variation in style options such as ticket pocket, skinny lapels, piping, and pick stitching. Let’s not forget that Coppley suits are produced through a manufacturing process that is mostly if not all done by machine. Custom tailored suits made by a tailor will take twice as long if not longer to make, usually by combination of hand and machine work. This is due to the option of a full floating canvas as the suit skeleton rather than the use of adhesive. An important note for those that are muscular is that custom suits can more easily account for the extremes of a big chest and small waist (also known as a high drop).The Coppley suit is cut is classic American which may not necessarily account for this type of higher drop.


Other options may be highly trendy as they reflect the latest runway fashions. Others may offer template designs with little leeway for customization.


Savillian offers classically modern cuts for men and women that can be further customized to personal preferences. The house cut for men is a cross between British and Italian with a fitted silhouette, higher arm holes, soft slightly roped shoulders and subtle suppression in the waist. The garment is fairly robust making for easy movement. The women’s house cut is reminiscent of Coco Chanel’s classic suit as it has clean lines yet appears powerful in its traditional design. It also has soft shoulders with a heavy suppression in the waist.


A true custom made suit is unique in fit and is based on the preference and attitudes of the customer. These minute details are what pave the way to many variations in the suit itself. Ultimately, it is up to the customer to do their research as buying a suit should be considered a long term investment. When looking around for a custom tailoring house one should visit each and see whose house style they most identify with and if they feel a connection to the person they will be working with.




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