Why are my pockets sewn shut?

How unfortunate for you.

I thought about what my response could be to this predicament. Why have a pocket if it’s sewn? Why tease me in such a way?

Let us go deeper.

Back in the olden days when all clothes were made by hand and custom, basting was left on the shoulder, vents and pockets to ensure clean lines and proper shape upon delivery to the customer. Basting is a loose stitch that is used to put together a custom suit. Even today, you will see this left on high end suits. Occasionally you will also see an unsuspecting customer wearing the basting – how embarrassing!!! Basting is not to be worn but to be taken out – unless you are contesting a fashion statement I was unaware of…

My response to why the pockets are closed (and sometimes the vents as well) are to ensure clean lines and smooth form. Most of the time, there is only hand stitching that keeps the pockets together, so it can be carefully removed.

If you are the type to stuff your pockets with heavy objects then perhaps you should keep them closed as this will ruin the shape of the jacket and make you appear bulky.

 

It’s my day too – Part II: Alterations

Every Monday – Jessie will be taking over the blog to discuss his personal wedding planning struggles and successes from a male prospective.

So you may be wondering what I got altered last week at Studio Kim. Here is my tally:

• 10 custom pants
• 10 custom shirts
• 5 custom suit jackets

As I stood at the mirror, and allowed John to pin me up, I was relieved that the thousands of dollars that were spent on my custom wardrobe was able to be altered to fit my current “happy” new size. Then, shockingly John announced that 3 inches had to be let out of the waist and miraculously – the allowance was there… This would never happen in an off the rack suit as there is never any seam allowance available since they want you to buy another suit and want you to suffer from your happiness weight.

Surprisingly, my suit jackets were snug yet still buttoned at the middle so I just got them dry cleaned. Most of my weight was gained around my mid section from fine dining activities which mostly involved drinking. The affected wardrobe items were mainly pants and shirts.

Shirts appeared to be a different animal altogether. It appeared that my buttons required slight movement to counteract the protruding bulges. Furthermore, I discovered a secret to custom shirts that I will now implement into Savillian shirts:

• The chest size should be a maximum 1 inch larger than measured, and then darts created at the upper back that will counteract the 1 inch. In this way, you will be able to easily take out the darts at the back and allow for an extra inch of happy comfort. It won’t be a perfect fit but it is a nice safe guard for future happiness that may ensue.

Total Cost: $300 Ability to keep happy fat: Priceless

Life at TFI: Alteration Recommedations

Each week I will post a picture on the happenings of Savillian.

Alterations – the bane of existence – Part III

At this point, it feels as though alterations has taken on a guide of its own. There is so much to discuss and so many nips and tucks to share with all of you. I do promise that this is the last week alterations will be discussed, however you should know that my fingers are crossed while I write this…

Here are three places that I recommend depending on your lifestyle, geographic location and wallet size.

Rich in the Suburbs – parents with money

 Classic Fit Alterations is located in Square One Shopping Centre in the heart of Mississauga. It is not an independent store yet I am drawn to this particular location because the tailor there is impeccable and tackles the most complicated of suit surgeries including removing a working cuff, ripping out a shoulder and shrinking a collar. This store takes care of other high profile stores’ alterations which makes it tried, tested and true. The downside is that you may have to sell your soul in exchange for the million dollar look. Basically, I would only recommend this place for your high quality or designer clothing – not your wash and throw - polyester dust collectors. Also, it may help to actually have money to spend.

Uptown Stylish – friends with money

Another alteration’s gem is located deep in the criss crosses of hwy 401, where the way there is different than the way back. Pauls Tailors is a family run operation, where most likely the tailor taking care of you will be named Paul. It is a no nonsense place that delivers exceptional alterations at a very reasonable price. If the hours weren’t so limited and the location not so tragic, I would take all of my alterations here. If you are busy during the day and can not make it till the evening or the weekend, well they will not be open for you, and they do take extra holidays. The only way you find out about that is when you read the handwritten sign on the door.

Downtown lovelies – pretending to have money

I must admit that the third place I am recommending is a place I have not tried yet. However, the crew on the styleforum and John - the intern very much think this is the place to be seen – it is Studio Kim in King West. The hours, location and prices are all very reasonable and accomodating. The only thing to watch out for is that they are quite busy, so always give them a deadline. I do believe that the tailor is Kim herself – this is always reassuring.

Intermediate Guide to Suits: Part XIV

Each week, I will present a post on the ins and outs of custom suits AND suits in general at an intermediate level. It is recommended that the beginner’s guide be read first.

Alterations – the bane of existence – Part II

Other than the obvious of getting your pants hemmed or the waist taken in (or out) - there are far scarier alterations that sometimes are very necessary.

Shoulder De-construction – this alteration usually needs to occur when the armhole does not fit right. Either the armhole is too big and sags at the armpit or is too tight and cuts off arm circulation. There is also a third problem that may occur where the whole sleeve requires rotation. Have you ever tried on a jacket and you notice the sleeves are puckering and the fabric is gathering? This is due to the way you hold your arms (like a gorilla or at attention). A custom suit accounts for this body naunce.

As I mentioned in the Beginner’s guide – the shoulder is made up of many layers (like the chest). This is why it is a complicated operation and is attempted by only the most experienced tailors. Remember that any shoulder operations will cost upwards of $30 to $70 PER SHOULDER!

As far as fit on the shoulder is concerned- this is a separate undertaking that is rarely attempted. I must stress the importance of shoulder fit – if it doesn’t fit in the shoulder, don’t bother with it, since the alterations alone will cost more than the suit.

 

 

 

 

Intermediate Guide to Suits: Part XIII

Each week, I will present a post on the ins and outs of custom suits AND suits in general at an intermediate level. It is recommended that the beginner’s guide be read first.

Alterations – the bane of existence – Part I

I hope that I have stressed the importance of alterations so far in my guides. Unless you are one of those rare individuals who’s body shape matches the off the rack sizes perfectly, then you can ignore this post (I have met someone like this).

Off the rack suits are measured by chest size (avg: 38 to 46) and height (Short, Regular, Tall). Furthermore, you may have noticed that each brand fits differently – this is due to their unique ”house cut”. They may make the armhole and waist tighter or looser depending on what their brand style represents. (Brioni makes theirs big, Boss makes theirs really tight – our house cut is closer to Boss, just a lot more accommodating!).

Although you may pick a chest size that is closest to your own size – it is not as crucial as a jacket’s shoulder fit. This is what you should look for because shoulder reconstruction is complicated and expensive and some alteration places won’t even touch it.

Look at your suits in your wardrobe and see which ones fit you in the shoulders (get your gf or wife to help criticize). If they all do then – congrats, you can keep them!

Next week, I will talk about the types of alterations that you may need on your suits and later I will recommend alteration’s places.

P.S. – this is more or less the same for women – fit in the shoulders first!