Savillian on TDOT TV

 

Wedding Guide to Suits: Part IV – Boutonnieres

“Boutonnieres” are small arrangements of flowers or foliage pinned on a groom’s or groomsmens’ upper left suit lapel. Usually, there will be a button hole on the left lapel yet the purpose of this is to hold a single stem of a flower not a grouping arrangement. This originated from Savile Row as custom suit wearers wore a single flower in their lapel regardless of the occasion.

This has nothing to do with formal wedding attire. The act of wearing a boutonniere is completely separate from wearing a single flower through the buttonhole. In this sense, the boutonniere is NOT pinned through the buttonhole, it is pinned on the outside of it, so that the buttonhole is still visible.

There also has been some debate whether or not a pocket square should be worn with a bouttonniere. I must admit that it will look “busy” and that an obvious effort is being made to accessorize. It’s like when a woman wears earrings, bracelets, necklace – you should only wear 2/3. However, I feel as though if done right through – wearing a plain pocket square then it could work fairly well a la Fred Astaire.

 

Wedding Guide to Suits: Part III – Rent vs. Buy vs. Custom

Obviously, I am heavily biased but I am bold enough to touch this subject and readily compare myself to the options available for a groom and his wedding party. Before I begin my rundown, I must share my annoyance about the whole topic. There seems to be this notion that grooms should not look as good as their brides; that no one cares or looks at them. This has been perpetuated through the likes of Moore’s commercials and the general stereotype that guys generally don’t care. Perhaps this is how it was in the past, but now men are stepping it up in their grooming and overall style. This is the new reality.

For any wedding choice, it all comes down to key attributes that you as a couple (or family) value the most. I will run down which attributes match which choice.

Renting – Paying for the wedding yourself, but care about minor details

It’s cheap and that’s really the main point. I wouldn’t expect the suit to fit amazing like a Moore’s commercial will have you believe. But, for $120 bucks for the whole deal what can you really expect? There are quite a few places that provide this rental service with matching everything head to toe – so everyone can look the same (and potentially smell the same). I would recommend getting a newer style (latest collection) as this will be less worn and so there will be less of a sheen or worn quality to it. Furthermore, I would stay away from bright aqua or any neon colours for matching in pocket squares or ties – this will make it look tacky. Try to be creative with the matching through using patterns and high and low lights of colour.

Buying – Parent’s helping with the wedding, groom is a little dazed and confused

This option is more expensive than renting and is usually attempted only if additional family are helping pay for the wedding. This is also attempted by grooms who wait till the last minute and find themselves at a mall searching for anything since the rental places are sold out. If you are willing to buy a suit, then do yourself a favour and spend atleast $500. Anything less than this is quite frankly not appropriate for your wedding day. I would suggest going to a high end store like Harry Rosen so you find something with quality wool. Do not get caught up with brand names – look for fit in the shoulder and comfort above all factors. Ensure to budget for alterations that most likely will be needed in the waist, sleeves, trouser waist and trouser length, this could be up to $100.

Custom – Your parent’s are paying for most of the wedding and you want something amazing for your special day

This is the most expensive option, but it all depends on the type of fabric you choose. The price can range from $800 to $1400. This is the only option where you can literally design the suit of your dreams and why not wear it on your wedding day? In the end, you are left with a suit that can be worn for life to formal occasions and made different just with the switch of accessories. Having a suit fit you perfectly with additional personal details (cuff, lapel, lining, etc) will not only make you stand out but also make you worthy of standing beside your beautiful bride.

Lastly, I must leave you with my personal pet peeve: do not wear a rental vest with a bought or custom suit – it makes everything look shabby.

Note: Savillian prices range from $800 to $1400. Full bespoke starts at $3000.

Beginner’s Guide to Suits – Insert

I forgot something of importance in regards to the beginner’s guide to suits, and now I am adding it as an insert.

Starting with the Basics: Suit Colours

When it comes to suits, you need to start off with the basics – this does not include beige, white or multi-coloured solid pinestripes.

The basics for men are 1. Grey/Charcoal 2. Navy Blue 3. Black with a subtle pinestripe. The basics for women are 1. Black 2. Grey/Charcoal 3. Navy Blue.

You may be asking why a man’s and woman’s first choice of suit colour are different. For a man, a black suit is much too formal and should only be worn at a funeral or extremely formal and rare occasions – it is not a necessity for everyday. For women, a black suit exudes power while remaining feminine a la YSL.

Check out the Savillian Classic Collection for the basics. (Also added as a link on the right toolbar).

Defining Personal Style: 3 steps to Audacity

After my sleep was rudely interrupted by a guitar playing/singing house co-inhabitant, I lay wide awake in bed for hours fuming. I questioned her audacity, but then it hit me – she was utterly clueless. She had no idea that her noise was disturbing me down the hall. Then, I thought about personal style and how most people fall into two categories: being completely audacious or completely clueless. I think about Cher in Clueless – how ironic – she was clueless but she was audacious when it came to her style.

I have a friend who claims to have no fashion sense and does not think about what to wear, yet to me, he stands out through interesting fabric choices, well fitted jackets and vintage (looking) aviators. Is he clueless or does his audacious girlfriend dress him? I have another friend who appears to have studied and passed the GQ magazine style exam. From his well placed cuff, to fitted jackets to sweater-collar combinations – his outfits work so well, it’s like he spends an hour styling each day or perhaps coordinates his outfits on Sundays? Is he audacious or playing it too safe? There is also those that point blank refuse to try a bowtie – for absolutely no logical reason – perhaps he feels his neck is too fat?

I feel like my style has evolved from jogging pants and $5 tank tops to now – bespoke tailored suits. I must say, I awkwardly made the transition and lately I have completely veered off course. With my style muscles flexed, one day I had the audacity to steal my brother’s white shirt which was displayed on my studio mannequin and start wearing it in my weekly rotation. Later that week, I became obsessed with fedoras and now wear one almost every day.

How did I get to this place of complete audacity – well it wasn’t easy. You must be a person who has no qualms or care of what others may think of you. Here are my 3 steps to audacity.

1. Find a style mentor that is in your industry. The person should be of the same height and body type and most importantly is someone that you admire in style. You may look to family, friends or someone in your company. Choosing a model in a magazine or celebrity is unrealistic so stay away from that. This is an important step as it will build your confidence.
2. Shop Vintage! Some of my most treasured  (and audacious) items are vintage – such as my leather laptop bag, my brother’s Dior tie, and my beloved pink check tweed blazer. These will very much make you stand out from the crowd.
3. Start small. Don’t go overboard on your first trip to audacity. Things to try are a colourful pocket square, a tie clip, a blazer with jeans and shocking white shoes, or a bowtie with a t-shirt. Of course, these small steps all depend on your industry and your style mentor – the point is to trust your gut and not be afraid – let your inner style instinct guide you.

When someone looks at you with a bit of a raised eyebrow or an incredulous look – than you know they are thinking how can you have the audacity to wear what you are wearing – then you know you are on the right track.

 

Wedding Guide to Suits: Nehru Part II

The grey wool Nehru suit from last week sits idly awaiting the chance to be worn. Since it sits beside me every day, I felt compelled to write a second part to Nehru suits as it is hard to find current information and pictures on this unique looking suit. Although, Zegna, Canali and Calvin Klein have all dabbled in this suit style, it still appears to be geared towards the Eastern world – these pictures were taken from an Indian magazine.

Last week’s suit was elegantly simple, yet there are options to spice it up such as wearing a clasp at the collar as a decorative accent. With a clasp style mandarin collar, it can be worn casually open with a collared shirt as shown below – just ensure that the collar is small and doesn’t empower the Nehru one. Furthermore the buttons can also play a role in creating accents for the suit. Since there are so many used on this jacket, it may make sense to try a silver, gold or fabric covered button. The overall fabric also plays a role in creating a formal or casual look (like any suit). A wool fabric mixed with silk, will create a sheen that catches the light.

Women Wednesday: Secret to a perfect shirt

We have all been in that position (men too!) where we are “popping” out of our shirts. This can be an embarrassing predicament, especially at the boardroom table. How do we ensure this never can happen? Well, you could wear an undershirt – tanktop? However, an undershirt (especially for guys!) is the equivalent of showing visible panty lines for women – a definitive no-no. You could use double-sided stickers but they may un-stick themselves at will. What you need is hidden button snaps at two spots of potential reveal-age as shown below. A fitted unrevealing chest (with accompanying fit in the shoulder) is truly the secret to a women’s perfect collared shirt.

Life at TFI: Ontario Pavilion Vests for the Olympics

All of sudden, I find myself leading a group of 4 talented up and coming designers: Andy Hall, Bora Birs, Manam and Paris Li. We have 3 weeks to pull together a uniquely made garment, complete with samples and production/manufacturing of 20+ outerwear vests for the Ontario Pavilion at the Olympics. So far, the government has selected fabric and the design. Now, its a matter of creating the sample and then sewing, sewing and more sewing!! Its not as easy as it may seem – this is my first official foray into being involved in the trenches of producing a garment from scratch. Although, I am not involved in the production, I do get to observe, ask silly questions and help with “cutting”. Thankfully, there is alot of other non-producing things to do such as liasing with the government, sourcing fabric, handling costs and profit, marketing/PR of this project and of course leading the team towards success! I will post pictures as we get closer to a product and tweet as I go.

Wedding Guide to Suits: Part I

Nehru or Oriental Style Suit (Jackets)

Nehru style jackets is of Indian origin (1940’s) and grew to some popularity in the 60-70’s in the Western world largely due to the Beatles. Now, we see it arise in the occasional Austin Powers movie.  

Nonetheless, this suit is formal in appearance and may appeal to a groom looking for a simple, yet elegant look. There are a few style options to consider as this suit can be dressed up with a clasped collar and/or fabric buttons (like a tuxedo). I would recommend wearing a simple black or white non-collared shirt underneath to emphasize the straight mandarin collar, rather than wearing a mandarin collar which may make you look like a priest.   (Click on pictures to make bigger).

Nehru Suit - Grey Wool

Nehru Suit - Grey Wool

Women Wednesday: Business Suits

Fashion is fun, but when it comes to most industries like finance, law and most business – you have to look the part – professional and powerful. Here are two of my latest client power suits dressed up with some fancy scarves.

 

ladies custom skirt suit - charcoal wool

ladies custom skirt suit - charcoal wool

ladies custom suit - super 120 black two-toned pinestripe

ladies' custom suit - super 120 black two-toned pinstripe